My first glimpse of it was crossing the Skaftárhraun lava fields from the 1783 Laki eruption. Now covered in moss, they were an erie and to my eyes beautiful landscape to travel through. In the distance was Vatnajökull, filling the horizon with ice. As we drove toward it a tongue of the epic glacier came into view.
Svínafellsjökull was just a warm up though for the quite incredible Jökulsárlón, justifiably one of the most popular places in Iceland. Fifty years ago the glacier fed directly into the sea, but it has retreated so much since (which is quite terrifying and consistent with almost every other glacier I’ve seen) that a lagoon has been created in which icebergs gradually melt before becoming small enough to pass out to sea.