The relatively newer part of the city, the development of West Jerusalem was a focus for the newly formed state of Israel. It lacks the history of the Old City but makes up for it in a number of worthwhile sights, though most take some effort to get to as they’re spread out and not always close to public transport.
The Machaneh Yehudah markets are among the best I’ve been to anywhere in the world. They have an amazing atmosphere, great produce, and a huge variety of stalls. I visited them twice in my first afternoon in Jerusalem and wish I had longer to explore them further.
The area outside the markets is also funky, filled with interesting places to eat and some street art.
The best way to explore West Jerusalem is by the modern light train system, which runs from Damascus Gate by the Old City through to Mt Herzl. The western end of the line is marked with Homage to Jerusalem, a huge sculpture by Alexander Calder.
From here it is a short walk to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Memorial Museum, an understandably hallowed site in Israel.
The main space is the Holocaust History Museum, housed in a triangular building cut through with ruptures, which tells the story of the persecution of the Jews for centuries, culminating in the Holocaust and its aftermath. It is an almost overwhelming experience given the subject matter and amount of information (written, visual, and the audio guide has hours of content), that was unfortunately marred by so many noisy tour groups, Israeli conscripts playing hide and seek, and people wearing inappropriate clothing and taking photos, which isn’t allowed (but there appeared to be no staff inside to control this).
As well as the history museum there is an art gallery, exhibition space, synagogue, and memorials. Three hours here just wasn’t enough time, allow at least half a day if not more.
I returned to Jerusalem from Tel Aviv on a day trip using the efficient 40 minute train service connecting the two largest cities in Israel. Jerusalem Navon station is close to the government quarter, where impressive buildings house the Israeli parliament, Supreme Court, Prime Minister, and government departments. I walked past these and through the very pleasant Sacher Park, home to a massive playground, and welcome shade.
To the south of the park is the Monastery of the Cross, an impressive eleventh century structure which was unfortunately closed the day I visited.
From the monastery I walked up the hillside through Rehavia Park, which is far more wild than Sacher Park, making for an interesting contrast.
At the top of the hill is the outstanding Israel Museum, another place I underestimated, needing at least half a day, if not a full day to visit properly. It is one of the great museums of the world, with a huge collection well displayed. I enjoyed but spent too much time in the Archeology Wing, home to many treasures from the many civilisations that have occupied the Middle East.
I particularly liked these clay coffins which date back well over three thousand years.
The Jewish Art and Life Wing has four complete synagogues brought from Venice, India, Germany, and Suriname, quite unexpected and impressive.
There was plenty else in this wing of interest.
I rushed through the Fine Arts Wing unfortunately but a few things caught my eye.
My favourite galleries were unfortunately some of the last I visited, when time and energy was waning. Their Oceania, Africa, Asia, and Americas collections were very impressive, both for their size and quality.
Outside was another favourite, a 4,000sqm scale model of Jerusalem during the era of the Second Temple in the first century.
To finish with the final highlight, the superb Shrine of the Book, a unique building designed to house unique objects, the Dead Sea Scrolls. Photography isn’t allowed inside but the exterior is striking enough to give an idea.
