Shiraz

A great place to spend at least a couple of days, Shiraz was a contrast from the vastness of Tehran, with a relatively compact old town and some phenomenal mosques. Masjed-e Nasir Al-Molo (Pink Mosque) Worth getting to when it opens at 7.30am to enjoy the light streaming through the stained glass, though the exterior…

Iranian Street Art

Continuing my series of street art from unexpected parts of the world, I found plenty of street art across Iran, particularly in Tehran and Eghlid. Tehran was full of street art, part of a city initiative that provides free scaffolding for local artists to paint what they want across the side of many city blocks.…

Holy shrine of Imam Khomeni, Tehran

The holy shrine of Imam Khomeni is an enormous complex of buildings that have been under construction for 28 years, with the end still a long way off. An hour south of central Tehran, it is the resting place for Imam Khomeni, first leader of the Islamic Republic of Iran, and other religious and political…

Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art

Home to one of the greatest collections of Western art outside Europe and America, the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art is somewhere I’ve wanted to visit for many years. I lucked out by being able to see major modernist works which had been kept away from public eye in the basement for decades. They were…

Golestan Palace, Tehran

Built in the late 1800s Golestan Palace in Tehran combines traditional Persian architectural styles with a strong French influence. It’s a sizeable complex, now home to a dozen museums.The palace is set around a substantial courtyard and gardens with pools of green water, green lamps, bird song, and taped music. There were some wonderful tile…

Tehran

A huge, exhausting, exhilarating and surprising place, Tehran is the bustling and vibrant capital of Iran. More so than most places it is best explored, if possible, in the company of a local. Iranian’s are the most generous and welcoming people I’ve ever met, and the only people I’d trust (to a degree) to navigate…