Day two on this rarely tackled circuit of Atauro Island was a complete contrast to day one. Gone was the easy road walking and sandy beaches, replaced with what felt more like hiking in New Zealand, over rough terrain and along endless rocky beaches. Day one had taken me along the east coast, this day would take me down the west coast.
It wasn’t the greatest night sleep in Akrema, being the first time I’d slept in Timor-Leste without a fan or air conditioning, and there was little breeze. I managed to sleep though until the rooster woke me at 4.30am. I fell back asleep for a couple of hours to wake finding breakfast laid and my guide and the homestay owner and his cousin waiting for me…
After breakfast we visited the village cemetery where many of the family of the homestay owner were buried, including sadly his wife and one child. There is some medical care on the island but it is limited.
Returning to the northern end of the white sand beach at low tide was a different experience to the previous day. Even at low tide we had to climb up and over the headland, sweaty work in high humidity carrying a rather heavy pack for five days hiking (including snorkeling gear!).
This landscape was a complete contrast from everything I’d seen before on the island. The field of rocks looked volcanic, and required careful foot placement.
These rather impressive stone and branch fences are to keep out goats from the fields of crops within them.
On the other side of the headland was another epic beach, home at the northern end to the small village of Vatuu, which we passed through.
It was a long slog along this beach in steady rain, against a head wind, though at least for once while hiking in Timor-Leste I wasn’t overheating…
These fossil like rocks (maybe fossils!) kept my interest along the beach.
At the end was a welcome shelter for a half way rest.
After here the landscape changed again.
Although it was low tide, some care was required around here to keep my shoes dry.
Back onto another long, epic beach, which reminded me of those on Rakiura / Stewart Island when I hiked the North West Circuit.
There was even more plastic waste though on the beach the whole way.
These rock structures were apparently built to catch fish by stranding them at low tide in pools.
It was a stunning piece of coastline.
I reached Adara late morning after about three and a half hours fast walking. This time I made it to the correct homestay and thankfully beat the heavy rain that fell for much of the afternoon. It was good to have a proper rest and was hard to beat sitting outside under cover watching the rain in the most pleasant temperature I’d yet experienced in Timor-Leste.
During a break in the rain I went for a quick village explore. Less than 200 people live here but they have an impressive church.
Adara is home to amazing snorkeling, with a vibrant reef close to shore. Unfortunately with waves like this snorkeling was definitely off…
My homestay provided lunch and dinner, very similar rice, noddle, omelette and vegetable combinations, and these super heavy cake things for a snack and breakfast!
For the detailed route and logistical information please select this hike below (click top left for the list of hikes).