Santa Cruz Cemetery is one of the most important places in modern Timorese history. On 12 November 1991 mourners for independence supporter Sebastião Gomes were fired upon by Indonesian soldiers while undertaking a peaceful procession from Motael Church to Santa Cruz Cemetery. More than 250 people, mostly students, were killed. British journalist Max Stahl managed to bravely film the massacre, and hide his footage in the cemetery, to later recover and share with the world. Timor-Leste had been under occupation from Indonesian since 1975 but this was the event that really brought the world’s attention to bear, and helped lead to independence.

In a twist of fate the Indonesian Military Cemetery (Taman Makam Pahlawan Seroja) lies across the road from Santa Cruz Cemetery. This is home to the graves of 697 Indonesian soldiers (only 243 of whom have been identified) who died while serving in East Timor between 1975 and 1999.

Close to Taibesi Market, Becusi Cemetery is one of the largest cemeteries in the country. Many of the tombstones are lit at night by solar powdered LEDs.

Also close to Taibesi Market (in the opposite direction), the Chinese Hakka Cemetery is quite different. The size of the cemetery clearly demonstrates the long term presence of Chinese in the community in Timor-Leste. It was opened in 1889 on land donated by the colonial Portuguese government, and is home to around 1,500 tombs.

Santa Ana Cemetery is a relatively small site across from Dili’s waterfront. The tombs here are so closely packed in that it is difficult to walk through the cemetery without careful footwork.