Aileu is one of the smallest municipalities in Timor-Leste in terms of population (54,000 people) and one of two landlocked municipalities (along with Ermera). It is reached by an endlessly winding road that climbs over 1,000m from Dili on the coast.
Mt Ramelau, the highest point in Timor-Leste, was clearly visible on the drive from Dili to Aileu.
Before Aileu town is a 20-30 minute detour to the wonderful Seloi Craic, home to a beautiful lagoon filled with water lilies and surrounded by rice fields. This is a productive agriculture area, and they are developing their tourism opportunities. Mt Ramelau could also be seen in the distance.
They have built some scenically located accommodation overlooking the lake.
To the east of Aileu town is a large memorial to Nicolau Lobato, the first prime minister of the Democratic Republic of East Timor. His time in office (and life) was cut tragically short by the actions of the Indonesian government. The memorial was inaugurated in 2014 and also honours 32 Timorese who helped hide resistance leaders during the Indonesian occupation, and 137 veterans. Nicolau Lobato is also commemorated by Dili’s airport and the Presidential Palace being named after him, and there is a large statue of him in the middle of the roundabout outside Dili’s airport.
Near the memorial was this interesting building.
Flying my drone gave a better understand of how the town sits in the landscape, next to the substantial river running by the town.
The three column red and white Tiga Pilar Monument is a local landmark on the main road from Dili to Aileu town.
As you enter central Aileu you are greeted by Rotunda Aileu, which has a figure on top of a roundabout, representing the Timorese breaking free of the chains of colonisation.
Just beyond Rotunda Aileu is Jardim de Baumeta, a large formal park, home to various symbolic structures, and a playground in the only shady spot. It took a year to build, from mid-2023 to mid-2024, and cost $300,000.
The main cemetery is just up the road from Rotunda Aileu.
On Saturdays large regional markets are held just down from Jardim de Baumeta. This is also where local bus depart from to Dili, Maubisse, and other destinations.
On 31 August 1942 Aileu was invaded by Colunas Negras, the Timorese allies of the Japanese invaders. Five Portuguese soldiers, and a number of civil servants and missionaries, were killed. The sizeable Aileu Massacre Monument on the main road through town commemorates the massacre.
Opposite the monument is an attractive building from Portuguese times, and a pair of statues representing mane (men) and feto (women) in local traditional clothing.
When I visited Aileu in September 2024 the new Igreja Paroquia São Pedro & São Paulo Aileu was well under construction.
On the hillside behind the church is a statue of St Peter and Saint Paul, the patron saints of Aileu.
Projeto Montanha is an impressive local NGO that runs a restaurant, guesthouse, handicraft centre, music studio, wood work, and even dentistry. It has a Brazilian influence and trains local youth in art and culinary service.
The Quinta Portugal project started in 2016 as an off-shoot of a Portuguese co-operative agroforestry centre that was established in 2001. It aims to contribute to improved food security in Timor-Leste through diversification of agroforestry production, which has included growing over 450,000 trees of a variety of species to plant elsewhere in Timor-Leste. Tours are possible to see their coffee farming and explore the plantations. I visited during the annual coffee festival.
Dili Vanilli are growers, buyers and sellers of 100% organic coffee, vanilla, tea, and spices including turmeric, ginger, cinnamon and cloves, established in 2018. There is a shop on site and tours are possible. The owners also run the Posada Txiriboga Aileu on site, and offer a farm stay.
Between Aileu and Maubisse are the very photogenic rice fields of Lahae.
