A guide for those thinking of moving to Fiji’s capital Suva, based on recent personal experience.
Where to live | Getting around | Meeting people | Sources of local information | Where to eat, drink, and shop | What to do in Suva | Weekend escapes from Suva | Staying safe | Getting online | Weather and seasons | What to bring | What to wear | Money matters | Language | Other practical information
Introducing Suva
The capital of Fiji, Suva sits on the southeast coast of Viti Levu, Fiji’s largest island. The population of Suva and the nearby towns of Lami, Nasinu, and Nausori total around 330,000 people, over a third of Fiji’s population. It’s a hub for government, business, and education, and offers a blend of Indigenous Fijian (iTaukei), Indo-Fijian, and Pacific cultures. The city centre is relaxed and walkable, with colonial-era buildings, busy markets, and frequent views of the ever present ocean. Suva isn’t what comes to mind when most people imagine Fiji, but it is a relaxed place to call home.
Where to live
The Suva-Nausori corridor sprawls for up to 20km north and west of central Suva. Most internationals, however, will end up living in one of these neighbourhoods…
- Domain, Muanikau and Nasese – Leafy, quiet, and close to the waterfront; pricey but popular with diplomats and professionals.
- Tamavua, Namadi Heights and Goodrum Place – North of the central city but with frequent buses into town, elevated areas with views
- Samabula – Central, convenient, and a mix of old and newer housing.
- Lami – Just west of Suva, smaller-town vibe and more affordable rents.
For property listings try Harcourts, Jasons Realty, Kritika Rental Properties, and many more are listed on the Property.com.fj website. The Expatriates in Fiji, Properties for Rent & Sale – Suva, and Flat & House for Rent – Suva Facebook groups are also good places for property listings.
It is worth asking about flood risk as lower areas can flood during the wet season, and ask about the security of the property and the neighbourhood.
Getting around
Suva is a relatively compact city with a number of options for getting around…
Taxis are everywhere and cheap, with metered rates starting from $2, and most journeys around town cost around $5. You can call taxis from a local taxi rank, but generally there are plenty on the streets to hail down.
Buses are the main transport for locals, costing $1-$2 per trip. They’re reasonably comfortable other than the deafening music. They run every 10-30 minutes but do not run to a fixed timetable. There was no map of the routes so I made a bus map with twelve of the most popular routes. All buses leave from the bus station by the central market. You’ll need an eTransport card to ride the buses, which can be bought from the bus station, Vodafone stores, and convenience stores. Bring ID with you. The card can be topped up in stores or by using the M-Paisa or MyCash apps. Let the driver know when you board to redeem your top up.
Walking is very doable with generally decent and clean pavements, and most places are accessible within 30 minutes walk. The heat and humidity can be draining though, and walking after dark is best avoided for safety reasons.
Cars are expensive and the paperwork requirements onerous but helpful for shopping and weekend trips. Road traffic can be slow during rush hour, especially near the hospital and CBD, but otherwise driving is straightforward, particularly if you’re coming from New Zealand or Australia, who also drive on the left-hand side.
Very few people cycle (except along the waterfront), and motorbikes are almost exclusively used by the police.
Meeting people
Suva is a social place once you get involved and connected into the community. Some good ways to do so include…
- Suva Social WhatsApp group organise regular Friday night social events, and is a good forum for questions.
- Fiji Rucksack Club has been active since 1963, and organise a range of events including hiking, tours, and weekends away.
- Local sports clubs such as Cycling Fiji, Fiji Golf Club, Royal Suva Yacht Club, Suva Lawn Tennis Club, Suva Scuba Dive Club, and Suva Marathon Club.
- Local church groups
- Volunteering with the Rotary Club of Suva
Fijians are famously friendly — a warm “bula!” and genuine interest go a long way.
Sources of local information
- Facebook is the go-to for community info in Fiji. Expat focused groups include Suva Living and Suva Expats.
- Marketplace groups include Buy and Sell in Fiji, Buy and Sell Fiji Market Place, and Fiji – Buy & Sell
- For local news, check Fiji Village, Fiji Times, and FBC News online.
Where to eat, drink, and shop
Word of mouth and Google Maps are good ways to find places to eat, drink, and shop, but here are some ideas…
- Cafés – The Farmer’s Daughter Cafe, Coffee Culture Cafe, Yue Lai CAFE, Central Cafecinno, Chef Philippe, and Ginger Kitchen.
- Restaurants – Tiko’s Floating Restaurant (seafood), Mainayau Authentic Local Cuisine (Fijian), Maya Dhaba (Indian), Fierce Chicken (Korean), Daikoku (Japanese), An Pho (Vietnamese), Jing Fang Restaurant (Chinese), Bar Belle (Fijian) and Veggie Restaurant (vegetarian).
- Food courts – BSP Suva Central Food Court, TappooCity, Dolphins Plaza, MHCC, and Damodar City Food Court.
- Bars – Privé Bar at Toorak Central, O’Reilly’s Bar Suva, Opium Bar Fiji, Freak Out Bar, Grand Pacific Hotel, and Holiday Inn.
- Groceries – New World (Greig St and Damodar City), Extra Flagstaff, MHCC, Fresh Choice. and Cost-U-Less supermarkets, plus the Suva Municipal Market for fresh fruit and vegetables.
- Clothes or electronics – BSP Central, Damodar City, MHCC and TappooCity malls. The Suva Flea Market (inaccurately named) is a good place for colourful Fijian clothes.
Note that almost everywhere is closed on Sundays other than supermarkets and restaurants, which tend to have shorter opening hours.
What to do in Suva
Check out my Suva blog post for a comprehensive guide to the city sights. Activities include…
- Walking around the Suva seawall, including My Suva Park.
- Visiting Fiji Museum and wandering around Thurston Gardens.
- Watching whatever is going on at Albert Park, including rugby, cricket, volleyball, and wheelbarrow races!
- Hiking and taking a dip in the natural pools in Colo-i-Suva Forest Park, though take care of your belongings at busy times, particularly weekend afternoons.
- Watching the latest movies at Damodar Cinemas.
- Swimming at the Suva Olympic Pool (currently closed), Damodar City Aquatic Centre or USP Pool.
- Heading to the gym, options include MetroGym, USP Fitness Centre, Valor Athletics, Afterburn Fitness Fiji, Evolve Fitness, and BoxFit HQ.
- Joining Alliance Française de Suva events such as free movies, exhibitions, games nights, and sometimes kids activities.
Fiji Traveller have an events calendar with what is going on.
Weekend escapes from Suva
It is surprisingly expensive and time consuming (particularly if you don’t have a car) to get away at weekends, but ideas include…
- Pacific Harbour for snorkelling, diving, white-water rafting, and ziplining.
- Beqa Island for snorkelling and diving with sharks.
- Leleuvia is a popular island resort relatively close to Suva.
- Resorts along the Coral Coast (southern part of Viti Levu), and visit Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park and Natadola Beach.
- Rakiraki for snorkelling and diving, for example Volivoli resort.
- Ovalau Island to visit Fiji’s only UNESCO World Heritage site, Levuka, the old capital. A few times a year the Rucksack Club organise weekend trips staying at Kauwai Retreat, which is a cost effective way to explore the island and neighbouring Moturiki Island.
- Taveuni, Fiji’s third largest island which is famous for snorkeling, diving and hiking. Flights take 45 minutes with Northern Air from Nausori / Suva Airport.
A number of places (such as Beachcomber Island Resort) offer local rates for those living in Fiji, though proof of work visa may be required. It is worth asking to see what might be available.
Fiji Pocket Guide is a great source of Fiji travel information.
Staying safe
Suva is generally a friendly and welcoming city, but as with any urban centre, a few sensible precautions go a long way.
- Day-to-day safety – keep valuables (e.g. phones, wallets, cameras) out of sight when not in use, especially in busy areas or on public transport. Stick to well-lit, populated areas, and avoid walking alone at night. Taxis are inexpensive and a safer option popular with locals after dark.
- Around the bus station, market, and nightclub areas, be aware of your surroundings and stay confident but alert. Most interactions are friendly, but if approached by overly persistent individuals selling goods or asking for money, a polite but firm “no, thank you” usually works.
- Weather and natural hazards – If visiting during the cyclone season (November–April), keep an eye on updates from the Fiji Meteorological Service. Heavy rain can lead to flash flooding, especially in low-lying parts of Suva. If a cyclone warning is issued, follow local advice, and avoid waterfront areas until conditions settle.
- Use licensed taxis (they’re metered, regulated, and easy to identify by their number plates starting with LT), and avoid travelling in vehicles that appear overloaded or poorly maintained. Minibuses that travel between towns in Fiji are notorious and best avoided.
- Health – Hydrate regularly, use sunscreen, and take the usual tropical precautions against mosquitoes, particularly during the wet season.
- Dogs – The street dogs (along the waterfront and in some suburbs like The Domain) are relatively tame, but take care when walking or running through suburbs north of the city centre. Locals often keep dogs to protect their properties, and may not always keep the gate shut…
Getting online
A local SIM card is almost essential, as public Wi-Fi isn’t common outside of hotels and cafés. The two mobile providers are Vodafone and Digicel, both of which have good coverage across Suva and the surrounding suburbs, but patchy between towns. SIMs are available at the airport or in town. Expect to pay $30-$40 monthly for a decent package. Internet speeds are reasonable but probably slower than what you have at home. If you’re staying longer-term, Telecom Fiji offers home broadband and fibre connections in many parts of Suva.
Weather and seasons
Suva is hot and humid year-round, with temperatures usually between 25°C and 32°C. During the wet season between November and April heavy rain is common and there are occasional cyclones. The dry season between May and October is slightly cooler and less humid. It’s a good idea all year round to carry an umbrella, for protection from either rain or the sun. Suva is notorious for having the worst weather in Fiji, humid, rainy, and often overcast, but there are still plenty of pleasant days, particularly during the dry season.
What to bring
It’s easy to find essentials in Suva, but imported items can be pricey. Some things to consider bringing with you are…
- Snorkel, mask and fins. They won’t be of any use in Suva, but will be for most trips to other parts of Fiji.
- Lightweight, breathable clothing and shoes.
- Any specialty foods, cosmetics, or medications you rely on.
- Electronics such as laptops, phones, tablets, watches, etc
What to wear
Clothing is casual but modest, reflecting Fiji’s mix of cultures and warm climate. In offices, smart-casual is standard — men often wear bula shirts and women light dresses. Around town, shorts and T-shirts are fine, but when visiting villages cover your shoulders and knees, and remove sunglasses and hats.
Money matters
Fiji’s currency is the Fijian dollar (FJD). Cash is needed for taxis, markets, some restaurants, and smaller shops. There are plenty of ATMs around downtown Suva. The M-Paisa and MyMoney apps (which come with Vodafone and Digicel SIM cards respectively) are widely used for mobile payments, and avoid the need to carry lots of cash. Credit cards are accepted in many places (particularly resorts) but fewer than what you may be used to, and expect to pay surcharges of 3-5%.
If you want to send money from overseas to Fiji Remitly can send money directly to M-Paisa accounts. Unfortunately Wise doesn’t currently work in Fiji. You can send money from Fiji to overseas bank accounts at Lotus Foreign Exchanges.
Local banks include ANZ, BSP (Bank of the South Pacific), and Westpac. To open a local bank account you’ll need a Tax Identification Number (TIN), which is issued by the Fijian government. Most banks also require proof of address (your apartment lease or a utility bill) and a valid passport.
Note that you can’t take more than FJD $2,000 out of the country each year without Reserve Bank approval.
Language
Using a few Fijian phrases will go a long way:
- Bula! – Hello / Welcome
- Vinaka (Vee-nar-ka) – Thank you
- Yadra (Yan-dra) – Good morning
- Set? / Set! – All good or yes, I will do or I understand
- Moce (Mo-they) – Goodbye
Other practical information
- Water – Tap water in Suva is technically safe to drink, but it is generally recommended to boil or filter it first. Many expats also rely on bottled or filtered water for drinking.
- Healthcare – The main public hospital is the Colonial War Memorial Hospital (CWM). Oceania Hospital, Nasese Private Hospital, and Pacific Specialist Healthcare offer private healthcare, often preferred by expats for quicker access. It’s advisable to have travel or local health insurance, particularly for serious emergencies or specialist care.
- Public toilets – There are plenty of public toilets in downtown Suva and at My Suva Park, which cost 50c. There are free toilets in Thurston Gardens and at Suva Point.
- Electricity – Fiji uses 240 V with Type I plugs (the same as New Zealand and Australia). Adapters are generally not needed if you are bringing devices from NZ/Australia, but check voltage requirements for devices from other countries. You may want to bring travel plug adapters with surge protection.
- Public holidays – Fiji observes public holidays seriously, and most businesses, banks, and government offices will be closed.
- Emergency numbers – 910 or 911 Ambulance or Fire, 913 Energy Fiji Emergency, 915 National Disaster, 917 Police Emergency Service, 919 Crime Stoppers Help Line, and 5777 Water Authority of Fiji
- Recycling – The are a number of large red, green and blue recycling bins (for paper, plastic, and tins) at key sites in Suva including outside the Ministry of Local Government, the Ministry of the Environment and Climate Change, and the Fiji Development Bank. The last one is the only one that doesn’t appear to be locked the whole time…
Final thoughts
Moving to Suva can feel like a big step, but it is one of the easiest Pacific capitals to settle in. Life here is slower, friendlier, and full of small joys — morning walks along the seawall, time with friends, and weekend adventures in other parts of Fiji. Come with an open mind and a relaxed attitude, and Suva will soon feel like home.