Close in difficulty to summiting Manucoco (the highest point on Atauro Island), this was a challenging half day hike I figured out from past experience and following random trails. Over ~13km and up and down 630m I walked the hard way between Vila, the administrative capital of the island, and Beloi, the main tourist hub (though still a very basic one!).

It was a beautiful if hot day in late November 2024, at the beginning of the wet season. I caught a tuk-tuk out to where the path to Manucoco starts.

I could see Manucoco ahead but I soon turned off to the right to head up through varied terrain.

I’d walked down this way twice, off the main road from Anartutu down to Vila, so it was familiar, but good to walk in the other direction uphill.

There was a fair amount of shade, which was very welcome, but in high humidity it was still a significant effort to get up the hill to reach the church which marks the turnoff from the main road.

I followed the road a short way before seeing a path off to the right. I had previously hiked up from Beloi along a nearby path and I thought that they might connect. They didn’t but that was fine as I got to explore a new path. Even at the end of the dry season the landscape was green and lush.

It was a steep descent, on slippery paths covered with leaves.

Even up here there were signs of settlement, with a couple of graves close to an empty house / shelter.

I descended down to what I later learnt is the main spring for Beloi, though there wasn’t much water in it…

I basically headed along the gully from the spring back to Beloi, though this was easier on the map app than it was in reality. I general I find it a good idea to follow the water pipes where possible, as they will be going somewhere!

It was slow going but shady and interesting walking, with the occasional clearing for growing crops, tough in this rocky environment.

It was a relief to finally reach the outskirts of Beloi, though walking on the road with no shade was hot work.

I walked by the huge new Protestant Church being built behind this village of 600 people, at a cost of $2m.

This was my 9th trip to Beloi, but the first time I’d visited Beloi Beach Hotel, which appeared closed.

Ponkys, a bar next door, was open though and was much flashier than I expected.

I returned through the village, passing a well attended wedding.