A stunning new addition to Wellington’s infrastructure, Te Ara Tupua (The Ancient Pathway) is 4.5km long seawall that protects State Highway 2 and the main trunk railway line, and incorporates a 5m wide shared path for cyclists and pedestrians. Costing $348m, it includes 0.8 hectares of reclaimed land, 2.7 kilometres of sloping coastal defences, more than 6000 interlocking concrete blocks, and six vertical seawalls to strengthen the shoreline. I explored it by bike in beautiful autumn weather three days after it opened, along with hundreds of other people walking, cycling, scooting, running, pram pushing, rollerskating, and dog powered skateboarding.
This post shares the experience travelling along Te Ara Tupua from Ngauranga to Petone, starting from Ngauranga train station, where I joined from the Hutt Road cycleway. A map shows the six ūranga (landings) at key sites along the length of the path, and there is the first of several community defibrillators. Note that there are no public toilets between Wellington Station and Petone’s Honiana Te Puni Reserve. The path is 1.8m wide for pedestrians and 3.5m wide for cyclists, which easily allows people to walk and cycle in both directions with no issues, which was a relief given the number of people about.
The first notable sight was the overbridge that crosses the railway tracks.
It is marked by cultural designs by artist Len Hetet.
Benches in the middle of the bridge were a popular place to stop and enjoy the views, and the bridge design.
It was then a short ride to the first of the ūranga, Piki Wahine, which was named for a hill above Ngauranga where women and children foraged for food. As with each ūranga, there was bike parking, benches, planting, cultural elements, and information panels. Along with views of the beautiful harbour.
The shared path is well marked for cyclists and pedestrians. I only came across one pedestrian (holding a small child!) in the wrong path. Unfortunately I imagine that there will be collisions though, particularly by men cycling too fast on road bikes, given how flat and relatively straight the path is. Interestingly the path is wide enough for emergency services, allowing access if (when) an earthquake or storm causes landslides covering the highway and railway tracks.
Tahataha Roa is named after a beach used for landing waka, which was destroyed in the 1855 Wairarapa earthquake. This was the most powerful recorded earthquake in New Zealand’s history, lifting the western side of Wellington Harbour by 1.5-2m.
Paroro-rangi Point was formerly a small Te Āti Awa settlement. Offshore is one of two artificial islets built for birdlife.
A variety of sea wall have been built, mostly revetments built of boulders or concrete, but there are also six sections with vertical seawalls to protect areas of beach gravel that are special habitat areas for birds.
Pari-karangaranga (Cliff of Echoes) is where Māori are said to have passed along the narrow beach while listening to the voice of a female spirit up in the steep hills. It is near a decorative utilities building.
Te Ana-puta (cave opening) is named for a sacred cave, and is home to some of the artificial tide pools, along with views back toward the city, and ahead to Petone. Offshore is an artificial reef, built from 54 pyramid-like grids of concrete, to replace the rocky shore lost during construction.
The final ūranga is Horokiwi, named for a former settlement and location of tracks connecting the area.
Protecting
The path finishes at Honiana Te Puni Reserve. This sits on reclaimed land and adjoins the beach, Korokoro Stream, and the Pito-One Interchange. It is a site of significance for Taranaki Whānui who have a relationship and ongoing connection in the area and the mana and mouri of Honiana Te Puni. An impressive Whare has been built as a flexible space for cultural events. The concrete and grass surfaces appear almost anti-cyclist, being among the most uncomfortable and slippery surfaces to ride on.
The mouth of the Korokoro Stream is a pleasing reminder of the natural coastline.
There are a few more sights nearby, including colourful toilets and Petone wharf.
Overall Te Ara Tupua is a wonderful piece of infrastructure connecting Wellington city and the Hutt Valley, a huge improvement from the previous ‘cycleway’, and a significant resilience asset. Clearly a lot of care and attention has been put into designing and building it. Returning home towards the city, though, the contrast with the connecting Hutt Road cycleway is rather stark.
