First couple of days of a week long, ~150km cycle around the Samoan island of Upolu, the slightly smaller but far more populated of the two main islands. Organised through Cycle Journeys / Outdoor Samoa, this was a great way to explore this beautiful Pacific country.
After a week of rain cycling around Savai’i it was wonderful to have blue skies as we set off from Mulifanua at the western end of Upolu. Everyone talks about how beautiful Savai’i is, but Upolu is just as lovely.
Falelatai was home to two impressive churches and a memorial monument, and at the end probably the steepest section of main road in the country, much easier on an eBike!
Shoes off to cross this ford at Lalotalie, before gorgeous coastal scenery cycling south.
Even before snorkelling at Giant Clams Sanctuary it was an experience, a picture perfect Pacific paradise.
The snorkelling was a little disconcerting at first as there is a significant amount of freshwater running into the sea, noticeable in the cooler waters and blurry vision through the mask. It cleared up by the time I reached a sea bed covered with these colourful clams.
By a large Samoan flag are the giant clams, slightly less colourful but five times the size, about a metre long.
Heading south it is common to see turtles, which proved the case when I visited, seeing a couple.
A freshwater pool by the entry / exit steps made a refreshing way to finish the snorkel, and opportunity to see a few fish.
I cycled back to Lalotalie to spend the night in a lovely riverside fale. After staying in many beachside fales cycling around the other main Samoan island of Savai’i being by a river made a refreshing change. The owner was super friendly and had an interesting life, spending most of it in Canada before retiring back to Samoa, quite a different environment and lifestyle. The overnight temperatures were the best of near month spent in Samoa, the food was tasty and plentiful, and it was relaxing falling asleep to the sound of the river.
In the afternoon I went with a local for an hour return walk / wade by / through the river up to an impressive waterfall.
The next day was the shortest ride of my circuits of Savai’i and Upolu, barely 7km back past the Giant Clams Sanctuary to the Return to Paradise resort. This amazing tree on the way into the resort, and this large group of pigs on the road were the only sights of note. Pigs are a common sight in Samoa, and a traditional form of currency.
Outdoor Samoa organised a half day trip to Vai Villas, about 25 mins drive from Return to Paradise. It sits at the head of an beautiful estuary.
We headed through mangroves by kayak, a memorable experience.
Things got a little tougher heading out across the mouth of a lagoon. This is a good area to see turtles, in about 15 mins we saw nine plus this large stingray. The lagoon is shallow and sandy which with a bit of wind meant the visibility wasn’t great. The turtles were more dark shadows moving surprisingly fast, though it was cool (if near impossible to photography from a kayak) to see their heads come up for air.
We stopped on this nearby beach for a rest and snacks before the harder return back, rewarded with a tasty lunch.
I stayed at Return to Paradise, the only resort I stayed at during my time in Samoa. It was a photogenic place to wander around, though to be honest I much prefer the local fales.
