A welcome return visit to the delightful Leh, capital of the Ladakh region in the Indian Himalaya. It had changed quite a lot since my previous visit in 2019, with many more tourists, particularly domestic, and therefore many more hotels, shops and restaurants.

The main market has been gentrified, with the fruit and vegetable sellers moved to a new market nearby, to make space for handicraft stalls.

The Sunni Jamia Masjid had been renovated and was an attractive place to visit.

As was the Shia Imambara mosque down the street.

Old Leh remained an atmospherically confusing maze of narrow and steep streets.

Behind where the fruit and vegetable market had been relocated was a beautiful statue of a pair of Black-necked cranes, known locally as Cha Thung Thung. They are the state bird of Ladakh and are known for their striking black and white plumage with a red crown patch. These cranes migrate to Ladakh during the summer months from lower altitudes in Central Asia, specifically to breed in the high-altitude wetlands of the Changthang region.

I was staying near Karzu Zing, a former water supply pond which is now used as an ice hockey pitch in winter when frozen. It was a great place for reflections.

It was close to the Moravian Mission Church, which unfortunately appeared closed every time I walked back.

A new sight for me was Nyzer Gompa, as it was only finished earlier in 2025. I got a taxi there and had an enjoyable hour or so walk back to central Leh. It is home to a colourful Buddha statue.

And a sizeable stupa next to it.

There were great views of Leh below, and a new path heading further up the hillside behind the Buddha statue and stupa.

This was a much quieter area of Leh, with no tourists and pleasant walking.

Though half way back things got a lot busier, with a huge tailback of traffic coming in on the road from the Nubra Valley.

One of my first walks in Leh was a useful acclimatisation walk up to the impressive Shanti Stupa, which I almost had to myself.

The stupa is one of many great viewpoints in Leh.

Just before the stupa is a small temple.

I also walked up to Leh Palace, which had a few new things inside since my last visit.

And wonderful views over Leh.

Another day I headed up above Leh Palace at sunset to Tsemo Monastery for great views.

Getting up there required dodging a few cows and heading up a steep path, good for acclimisation.

To finish with a few more photos from wandering the streets of Leh.