A highlight of the fortnight I spent walking the Peaks of the Balkans (a long distance trail through Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro), hiking between Valbona and Cerem over Presllopi Pass offered spectacular scenery and an absence of people. I saw seven other hikers all day, in comparison with hundreds the previous day walking between Theth and Valbona. This was a harder, longer and more remote hike though, with almost no shelter if the weather turns.

The morning light lit up the mountains as I left Guesthouse Kol Gjoni early.

There were a few kilometres of road walking to head into Valbona proper, thankfully shortened by hitching a lift.

After crossing the river the track followed a 4WD road up to a red and white radio antenna.

I came across this very unusual blue and black bug, unlike anything I’ve seen before. Googling it afterward I learned that is was a relatively rare Alpine longhorn beetle.

More wildlife spotting soon followed with this blue headed gecko.

It was a steep climb up the rocky landscape, with big views behind across the valley.

At 9am the skies dramatically darkened and I was lucky to be close to thick forest to take shelter from heavy rain and hail, and loud thunder seemingly overhead. Thunderstorms had been forecast for today, which put off every other hiker going the same way as me. Instead they took a dull 20km road walk to Cerem. It was a little risky but after half an hour the skies cleared and remained blue or with light cloud, and dry, for the rest of the day.

The rocky landscape turned to lush green, with big views down the valley as I climbed higher.

Coming into this cleaning, and up through the woods, I had a strong sense of deja vu. Checking the map this was where I had walked five years previous, on my first visit to Albania, heading up to the pass and back to Valbona, which inspired me to return and explore more of this incredible landscape.

It was a steep ascent but I was surrounded by memorable views.

I remembered this small shepherd hut and stone walls from last time.

It was ideal hiking weather, cooler than the previous few hot days, with cloud and sun creating ever changing patterns across the landscape.

There were some striking peaks nearby.

I came across the first of many patches of snow / ice I’d encounter along the Peaks of the Balkans.

The climb continued till I reached the 2,039m Presllopi Pass, which marks the border between Albania and Montenegro. There wasn’t much to mark it other than some painted rocks and a large patch of snow.

Patches of snow across the landscape added variety to views.

The Ice Wind Cave was quite surreal. It is constantly at 0C or below, partly filled with ice, and walking past it the air temperature noticeably dropped significantly.

Snow slowed progress when it blocked the track, and some scrambling was required to get around safely.

This was an impressive karst landscape, photogenic but slow for descending as foot placement is critical with the often sharp and jagged rock.

Below I could see a flock of sheep, which filled me with dread, as they would be accompanied by sheep dog. I don’t like dogs at the best of times, and the ones you encounter in the mountains are particularly large and able to be aggressive. Thankfully the shepherd was nearby and able to control them. There were two dogs, both huge!

It was a relief to pass them and head uphill again to the 1,850m Bori’s Pass where the trail re-enters Albania, this time denoted by a proper marker.

From here it was much easier walking along a dirt track, with an epic landscape to my right.

There was some particularly lovely forest though I got a little lost for the only time on the Peaks of the Balkans.

After the morning rain there were a number of giant slugs on the track.

After a long day it was a relief to finally arrive at Gueshouse Kujtim Gocaj in Cerem, one of the nicest places I stayed at on the Peaks of the Balkans.