In December 2020 I visited Farewell Spit, a 9,000 hectare, 26km long sand spit at the top of Golden Bay, which is home to a wide variety of wildlife, giant sand dunes, and an historic lighthouse. In April 2025 I returned to revisit this amazing place, and visit the nearby Wharariki Beach.

The only way to visit the whole of the spit is through Farewell Spit Eco Tours, who since 1946 have been guiding visitors. Tours times are entirely dependent on the tides, so they vary every day and there are often days when tours can’t be run. Due to the tides the tour this time started at 6.30am and did the same itinerary but in reverse to my last visit.

We stopped part way along the spit to see the sunrise.

Further on was the remains of a sperm whale that had washed up only six months before, and now one a few bones were left. Due to the curved shape and fast changing tides of Farewell Spit there are more whale strandings here than almost anywhere else in the world. The well practiced locals are able to save about half of them, but the ones that can’t be saved are left for nature to deal with.

At the end of the site is the 130 year old lighthouse. The top part is original but the supporting frame below was replaced due to erosion. When built the lighthouse was completely isolated and trees were planted to provide shelter. They have grown surprisingly well on a wind swept spot of sand.

There is a new automated lighthouse now so the numerous buildings are unoccupied other than one as a cafe type spot for the tour groups.

On the drive back along the spit we stopped by one of the largest sand dunes, which offered stunning views and the opportunity to run down it.

Beautiful patterns in the sand formed by the wind.

A pair of Pied Oystercatchers. There was definitely more birdlife in the summer when I last visited.

Fossil Point offered some dramatic cliffs.

We finished the tour at Cape Farewell, the northernmost point of the South Island.

The day before I visited Wharariki Beach, which is reached by a 1km track through farmland and bush.

It was an epic place, filled with contrast between the sand, rocks and dunes.

It is home to the Archway Islands. The best known photos of them are at low tide from the end of the beach, with light illuminating their arches. I couldn’t experience that at high tide but they were still a dramatic sight.

I loved the different sand textures and patterns formed by the wind.

To finish with a few photos from north of Collingwood where I stayed in an AirBnB by an estuary on Totara Ave.