On my third hike around Cristo Rei I was determined to follow the ridgeline of the hills behind it through to Hera Road to complete one of the most highly regarded hikes in Dili. I had studied the information I could find online and spoken to a couple of people who had done it but navigation when hiking in Timor-Leste is challenging at best. Read this to learn how NOT to do this hike, and take my learnings on how to do it properly (and safely!).

I started from Cristo Rei Beach, climbing the steps to where they meet those from Back Beach, and took the path to the left of one of the last Stations of the Cross.

There is a reasonably clear path from here over the ridge and down to an old water tank.

From here is where is gets tricky. There are basically four hills to climb and descend, the first, third and fourth are navigationally easy, but this second one isn’t.

I followed what appeared like paths which led to dead ends and bluffs. I scrambled higher and steeper than was wise before admitting defeat and phoned a friend. He had made the same navigational error a fortnight before which made me feel a little better, and told me to head around the hill to the left.

This I did but nowhere near far enough. You basically have to walk to the saddle between the second and third hills to safely ascend the second hill to the radio antenna (follow the blue rather than red line below!). Instead I saw a rocky gully which looked suitable to scrabble up. Unfortunately the rocks in this area are extremely brittle, and are also prone to easily detaching from the soil. Which made scrambling maybe ten metres quite a terrifying experience, which I couldn’t easily reverse once started.

It was with great relief that I pulled myself to the top to recover and enjoy the hard won views.

From here there was amazingly a clear path leading down the back of the hill away from the antenna. It wasn’t super clear where to join it from though but this more gentle gully looks a better candidate that the one I scrambled up.

Paths then disappear again but the terrain is less scary if still steep climbing up the third hill.

There is another roller coaster of descent and ascent to the surprisingly flat summit of the fourth and highest peak along this series of hills. At least the views were pretty good.

From here there is something of what once might have been a very rough road, though you’d struggle to drive up it now. Unfortunately a herd of suspicious cows with calves were in my way. To avoid chasing them all the way down the road I carefully outflanked them (not for the first time!) to get ahead of them down the road.

Eventually I spotted the saddle of the Hera Road, only to discover that there is a large locked gate, and barbed wire around the edge of heavily eroded hillside. This was the only way to exit though so I carefully climbed around to the relative safety of Hera Road with great relief. From here it was a simple road walk back toward Cristo Rei.

If I were to do this walk again (probably not solo next time) I’d start by walking up Hera Road and finish at Cristo Rei. This should be much easier navigationally, and gets the biggest climbs out of the way at the start. It is worth noting that there is little shade, and no water or food, on this hike, so be prepared!