Days three and four of a week long, ~235km cycle around the Samoan island of Savai’i, the larger but far less populated of the two main islands. Organised through Cycle Journeys / Outdoor Samoa, this was a great way to explore this beautiful Pacific country.

There was more heavy rain overnight, early May is seemingly a risky time of year for those expecting blue skies in Samoa. Thankfully we stayed dry while on the bikes, but it was super humid and overcast, with light rain returning in the afternoon. The first stop out of Manase wasn’t on the itinerary but a German Colonial Graveyard marked on Google Maps (without photos) sounded intriguing. Slightly to my surprise it existed and was easy to find by the main road. It was an atmospherically overgrown, and surprisingly large cemetery dating from the German colonial occupation of Samoa (1899 to 1914).

Further along the road was the sizeable Safotu Catholic Church.

It wasn’t really the weather for enjoying Mataolealelo Spring.

Pe’ape’a Cave was more suited to the weather. This is an impressive lava tunnel which extends for about 1km, but only maybe 100m is accessible. It is home to swifts navigating by echo-location, which can clearly be heard as they fly past your head.

Between Sasina and Asau is the longest stretch of inland road around Savai’i, for which I was grateful to be on an eBike as there was ~500m of climb in the heat and humidity. It is probably the most remote stretch of main road in Samoa, with Aopo being the only real settlement in the area.

Returning to the coast, there was another appealing freshwater pool in Asau.

I finished the day at Va-i-moana Seaside Lodge, the first and only resort on the trip, and therefore my least favourite place to stay. After having fales to ourselves it was a bit of a shock to see other tourists. We still stayed in a waterfront fale, taking shelter from the endless rain which returned in the afternoon and was heavy all night.

Thankfully the rain eased before we left the next day, though it was another overcast and super humid ride out to Falealupo, at the far western end of Savai’i. There were the usual sights on the ride, well maintained villages, freshwater pools and churches.

There was a reasonable climb before turning off the main sealed loop road onto a dirt road out to Falealupo, passing the first stadium I’d seen in Samoa, a sizeable school in a pretty remote area, and the entrance of Falealupo Canopy Walkway, which unfortunately was closed in May 2025 due to much need maintenance.

It was pleasant riding under palm trees along by the sea, dodging puddles.

This sizeable church was hit badly by Cyclone Ofa in 1990 and Cyclone Val in 1991, and is now an atmospheric ruin worth an explore.

Across the road is the replacement church.

I finished at Falealupo Beach Fales, one of my favourite places to stay on Savai’i, with decent fales and facilities on a beautiful beach.

There was good snorkelling literally metres from the shore, and for the first time in days there was no sign of rain, though melting under the sunshine I almost missed it…

The day ended with the best sunset I saw in my near month in Samoa, magical.