I spent pretty much the whole of 2024 living in Timor-Leste. Every time I planned to leave the capital Dili for more than a day I had to complete a travel notification form for Volunteer Service Abroad (VSA). VSA are the New Zealand NGO who supported me to volunteer with local NGO HAMNASA and the Ministry of Tourism. By the end of 2024 I had completed 29 forms! So rather than my usual chronological approach I thought I’d structure this post by the 13 municipalities of Timor-Leste (plus Atauro Island, though technically it is part of Dili). I made an 11 day trip to Australia (covered at the end) and am spending Christmas and the New Year exploring Indonesia.

Aileu

A pleasantly scenic municipality, which I’ve hiked and driven across. There are few major sights, other than perhaps Seloi Craic, and the epic views back toward Dili, but it has charm.

Ainaro

Home to some of the most epic scenery in the country. I’ve done a lot of hiking here, and enjoyed exploring the towns of Maubisse and Hatu Builico.

Atauro Island

The place I’ve visited the most in Timor-Leste outside of Dili, with 9 trips. I’ve hiked around the island twice, snorkelled, dived, been to the highest point, and relaxed at Barry’s Place.

Baucau

Possibly the most varied municipality, home to far more than just the city of Baucau, good as that is. Reaching Baguia involved some scary roads but the fort and summiting Matebian were magical, and Laga was an unexpected gem.

Bobonaro

Home to far more than Balibo, again good as that is. Atabae and Maliana are little visited but have plenty to offer, and there is some incredible hiking, as well as a couple of hot springs.

Covalima

My least visited municipality though I did spend five days there so I saw a fair amount. A planned return was scuppered by bad weather. This and Lautém are the only municipalities I’ve not hiked in.

Dili

Home for a memorable year. I enjoy escaping the heat and chaos of the big city but looked forward to returning back from trips. The traffic stresses me out but hiking in the surrounding hills brings me joy, and there is always something of interest happening.

Ermera

Home to some of the worst main roads in the country, which is a shame as there is much to explore. I particularly like Atsabe and Letefoho, some of the highest villages in the country.

Lautém

Controversial but this isn’t one of my favourite municipalities, despite it being one of the more visited parts of the country. The primary issue for me is that is is probably the flattest municipality, and I really like hills…

Liquiçá

Easily accessible from Dili, and home to a number of historical sights and decent beaches. I’m sure that there is good hiking in the hills but I never got to properly explore them.

Manatuto

Initially it just seemed like somewhere to pass through on the way to Baucau, but there is much more to the municipality than this. Manatuto town is one of the more interesting regional centres, and inland there is some wonderful hiking.

Manufahi

I’ve been hiking here three times but feel that there is still more see in this underrated municipality, home to some of the most varied and spectacular landscapes in the country.

Oé-Cusse

One of my favourite municipalities, which is unlike anywhere else in the country. As an enclave completely surrounded by Indonesian West Timor it has had a lot of investment from the government, including the best airport in Timor-Leste, a new port, generally decent roads, and it is so clean and quiet.

Viqueque

One of the harder municipalities to get to and get around, but it is worth the effort. Viqueque has wonderfully atmospheric landscapes, quite haunting and memorable.

Australia, September

An escape from Dili during forecast chaos (which didn’t happen) during the visit of Pope Francis. I think this was my 24th trip to Australia, and it filled in some areas I’d not yet explored – Kakadu National Park, Litchfield National Park, and Lake Bennett. It was great but after seven months in Timor-Leste it all felt rather safe, tame and touristy. Going into a supermarket was an absolutely overwhelming experience, the choice!