Beloi to Adara

For the detailed route and logistical information please select this hike below (click top left for the list of hikes).

A tough but popular route crossing Atauro Island between Beloi and Adara, home to the lovely Mario’s Place, possibly the best located accommodation on the island. A boat trip between the two costs $80, hiking will take you at least 4 hours and a decent amount of sweat as you climb over 300m up and over the saddle of the island.

Note that these photos are taken from both the walk there and back a couple of days later so the light varies. It is definitely easier walking back to Beloi as you’re downhill for the long, exposed road section between Arlo and Beloi, with the climb up from Adara to Arlo being mostly in shade.

I started early from Beloi in unexpected light rain, which thankfully held off for the walk, and the clouds made the long slog up Adara road marginally easier. I’d walked this section of dirt road five times in a month which I think is enough.

Turning left at a fenced field just past this t-shirt plant figure I took the ‘new’ road to Arlo, which is certainly shorter than the main road, and passes some impressive caves and trees.

Arlo is an attractive and well kept village, with the locals busy at church on Sunday morning on my walk back.

From here it is an easy downhill alongside fields fenced to protect them from goats.

At the end it gets much steeper, with a bit of scrambling required down this rocky section.

It is short though and I soon arrived at lovely Arlo Beach.

This was scenic but slow and hot work at high tide. On the way back I found a section through the long grass which was quicker, but the marked route on maps apps higher up doesn’t appear to exist. I spent quite a lot time trying and failing to find it!

At this huge tree there is a path running parallel to the beach, which is easier to walk on.

Adara is a village of 28 households who make their living primarily from the sea, supplemented by a few locally grown crops and imported tourists. I’ve stayed here before and enjoyed returning and seeing familiar faces. They experienced an earthquake in 2008 which destroyed the church, which has since been impressively rebuilt.

I stayed at Mario’s Place, a lovely collection of huts by the water. It was an idyllic place to spend a couple of days.

I went snorkelling above Adara Reef, which has an impressive drop off, but is for strong swimmers as there is only one entry / exit point on the rocky shore, and a strong current. It was fine heading out but quite a challenge to get back safely.